Setting
Setting is the art of inserting one or more gemstones into precious metal as discretely as possible while totally securing the gemstones.The claw is the metal frame used to hold the stone(s) in place. It is intricately bound with the overall aesthetics of the future jewel and the shape of the stones used.
There are three major methods of setting gemstones :
- Bezel setting
- Prong setting
- Pavé setting
1) Bezel setting
With this setting technique, a small band of metal is turned up to form a rim around the stone.Channel setting: the stones are arranged next to each other in a hollow channel and the external edges are folded up to hold them in place. Invisible setting: this technique hides the metal setting parts and "optically" enlarges the stone which is clasped from beneath (the base of the stone is cut and fitted into a channel).
2) Prong setting
The stone is held in place by prongs. They may have different shapes to enhance the stone's brilliance :- 4 or 6 classic claws,
- Crown setting,
- Setting with round, square or pyramid prongs,
- Arcade setting – also called chaton or coronet setting (an arcade is a ring of metal with claws in the shape of cones or a cradle).
3) Pavé setting
This technique is essentially used for "paving" the surface with gemstones. The stones are held in place by little beads of the setting metal.Hallmarks
On the body of a Poiray jewel, you will find the compulsory hallmarks clearly placed on the external surface. There is an eagle's head for 18-carat or 750/1000 gold, a dog's head for 950/1000 platinum, Minerva's head for 925/1000 silver and the maker's hallmark.1) The Maker's Hallmark
This is the signature of the jewellery-maker. The hallmark must be engraved on the jewel before it is presented for the assay.2) The Assay Mark
These marks have existed in France since the 14th century for precious metals (gold, platinum, vermeil and silver). It's an official guarantee of the authenticity of each metal and the conformity of the alloy.Thus, for each jewel made in France, an official assay mark is placed by the Assay Office, which looks directly to the French Ministry of Finance.
3) The main hallmarks
So as to facilitate the exporting of jewels, as the French Assay mark is not recognised everywhere, a hallmark in thousandths is added on the metal so that it can be identified worldwide.4) Other engravings
You will find :- The Poiray logo
- An individual number that is specific to the jewel
- 750 for 750/1000 which is the fineness of 18 carat gold.
